CROWN EFFECT…The Indigo Memoirs is a 90s Inspired Photo Series that Acknowledges the Historical Contributions of Black and Indigenous People to Modern Denim

Happy Juneteenth! Thanks for stopping by and checking out the second edition of CROWN EFFECT! The Indigo Memoirs is an extension of His Hue Their Truth and takes inspiration from the iconic 90s advertisements of Calvin Klein, GAP, and Levi’s. Shot in Philadelphia, this era is reimagined with black models photographed against an industrial backdrop. The overall representation of black men in denim and headwraps is powerful. CROWN EFFECT expands the layers of masculinity beyond its cultural limitations.

PREVIOUSLY ON CROWN EFFECT…

The first iteration of CROWN EFFECT…His hue their truth captures a diverse group of black men wearing headwraps and suits. This project, which explores themes of masculinity and community, honors the enslaved women of the antebellum south, and their efforts towards identity and self-expression.

AMERICA’S STORY

For many decades, denim has been one of the most popular contributions to mainstream fashion within the United States. From the cowboys of the wild west to all your favorite entertainers and celebrities, you can catch any and everyone rocking a pair of denim jeans. Think about it, you’re probably wearing a pair right now.

So, when did denim enter the world of fashion? When Googled, most articles credit Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis as the pioneers of blue jeans in 1897. More specifically, their patent was made in May of that year. All other information before that time is very vague. That said, what else do we know about its origins in the United States? What about the color? Where does the dye come from? To better answer these questions, we’re examining the “other” story that isn’t told in popular media.

THE REAL STORY

For starters, denim’s traditional blue color comes from the indigo plant, with origins from the Caribbean and West Africa. According to the PBS documentary Riveted: the History of Jeans, the enslaved people from these regions taught their plantation owners how to grow indigo in the early eighteenth century. States like South Carolina became a booming indigo growing region: One, for its ability to grow on difficult soils; Two, its size made for a very profitable crop. Let’s put things in perspective: indigo dyed cloth was so valuable, that one length of cloth could be exchanged for one slave. Let that sink in.

Not only were these enslaved black and indigenous people cultivating indigo dye, they picked cotton, as we know. According to the documentary, they harvested crops, shipped them to the north, and then they were shipped back as wearable denim garments. Even the enslaved people wore denim, called “Negro Cloths.”

In short, we have an understanding that the captured, enslaved black and indigenous populations of colonial America were responsible for the labor and knowledge of the indigo crop. In addition, they wore denim long before cowboys and celebrities. Its racially systematic foundation has been altered to fit a more positive, historical context. Thus, CROWN EFFECT serves as an ode to our ancestors

HEADWRAPS

Near the late 18th century, head coverings were imposed on enslaved black women as a method of control. These head coverings were used as mental weapons, to further strengthen the agenda of white supremacy. While their male counterparts were forced to wear hats, enslaved women were required to wrap their hair. Remember, slaves were considered cattle or “non-human.” To their masters, they were representations of inferiority, subordination, and poverty.

In time, the headwrap went through a period of reclamation. Once known as a status of inferiority, these enslaved women found alternative ways to express themselves. The headwrap created a space for identity, empowerment, and community. Black women found ways to become “human” and individuals once again.

In 2022, head coverings are still being wrapped today. While considered powerful symbols of independence and creativity, they’re valued by many cultures and communities across the world.

PRODUCTION

Photographer Bryce Lennon says his appreciation for denim has grown tremendously since working on the Indigo Memoirs. “Although I wear denim almost every day, I wasn’t aware of the
historical connection between indigo and slavery until more recently,” he says. “Our history is often overlooked and deserves to be recognized and celebrated.”

A WORD FROM THE CREATOR

Photographer Bryce Lennon says his appreciation for denim has grown tremendously since working on the Indigo Memoirs. “Although I wear denim almost every day, I wasn’t aware of the historical connection between indigo and slavery until more recently,” he says. “Our history is often overlooked and deserves to be recognized and celebrated.”

THE VIDEO

Speech: Kanye West
Music: “They Reminisce Over You (T.R.O.Y.),” by Pete Rock and C.L. Smooth
Shot by: Bryce Lennon
Location: Navy Yard – Philadelphia, PA

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 

We would like to personally thank all the models, team members, and anyone that contributed to our project. In addition, we would like to acknowledge Helen from Wrap & Sip for her contributions and conceptualizing the project. Leave some comments below, and we hope to catch up soon!

CREDITS

Photography: Bryce Lennon
Videography: Bryce Lennon and  Ish
Headwraps: Helen
Creative Director: Sierra Carter-Gordon
Location: Navy Yard – Philadelphia, PA
Participants: Q, Kristin, Nicoy, Adonis, Isaac, and Jordan